Trouble Shooting Guide For Clutches or Torque Converters

  • Kart Moves While Engine Is Idling (Clutch):

    1. Worn, overheated, or abused clutch - NOT OILED
    2. Drive chain too tight
    3. Engine idle is set too high
  • Kart Moves While Engine Is Idling (Torque Converter):

    1. Drive belt installed wrong (30 Series only, flat side of belt should be towards the engine)
    2. Wrong drive belt installed (a belt that is too short will cause the machine to "creep" at idle)
    3. Malfunctioning driver pulley (on crankshaft)
    4. Malfunctioning driven pulley (on jackshaft)
    5. Incorrect driver pulley spacing
    6. Engine idle set too high
    7. Pulleys not aligned (will also destroy belts)
  • Rapid Belt Wear (Torque Converter):

    1. Drive belt installed wrong (30 Series only, flat side of belt should be towards the engine)
    2. Wrong drive belt installed
    3. Overloading drive system (climbing hills too steep, pulling heavy loads...)
    4. Riding the brake
    5. Malfunctioning driver pulley
    6. Malfunctioning driven pulley
    7. Binding or dragging brake, bearings or axle
    8. Pulleys not aligned
    9. See the chart at the bottom of this page for more belt drive system trouble shooting info.
  • Poor, Sluggish Or Jerky Acceleration (Torque Converter):

    1. Malfunctioning drive system
    2. Throttle cable not properly adjusted
    3. Unlubricated, loose, or worn drive chain
    4. Binding or dragging brake, bearings or axle
    5. Engine not functioning properly
  • Erratic Engagement (Torque Converter):

    1. Erratic engagement is most often caused by the driver clutch that is mounted on the engine crankshaft. The flyweights in the clutch are sticking or the movable sheave is binding on the hub. 

      Knowing how they work may help you determine why yours doesn't.
      • As engine rpm increases, the flyweights push against the outer drum and force the movable sheave (pulley face) toward the engine causing the belt to travel at a greater circumference around the driver clutch.
      • This action in turn causes the belt to force open the driven pulley, allowing the belt to travel at a lesser circumference around the driven pulley.
      • As engine rpm decreases, the spring in the driven pulley closes the pulley forcing the belt to a greater circumference.
      • This action overcomes the force of the flyweights against the movable sheave and causes the driver clutch pulley to open, allowing the belt to travel a lesser circumference around the driver clutch.
      • When the engine is at idle, the driver clutch pulley should not engage the sides of the belt. The belt should be loose in the pulley and resting on the bronze bushing around the hub.
      • The bronze bushing serves to protect the belt from rubbing against the spinning hub at idle and also to support a portion of the movable sheave as the sheave moves toward the engine during engagement.
    2. The movable sheave must be able to slide freely on the splined hub without binding.
    3. Disassemble the driver clutch and clean away any dirt or lubricant residue using an automotive parts cleaning solvent.
    4. Do not use a petroleum based lubricant inside the driver clutch or between the hub and movable sheave. Use a dry, molybdenum based lubricant. The extreme heat and pressure inside the driver clutch chars petroleum based lubricants. Petroleum based lube also collects dirt which causes increased wear.
    5. Graphite lube is better than petroleum lube, but it also eventually leaves a residue that builds up on the parts, causing them to bind and require more frequent cleaning.
  • Low Speed (Torque Converter):

    1. Throttle cable not properly adjusted
    2. Binding or dragging brake, bearings or axle
    3. Malfunctioning drive system
    4. Improper tire pressure
    5. Engine not functioning properly