Order Toll Free: 1-(888)-926-6554 My Account: Log In

0 item(s) in cart/ total: $0 view cart
  • BMI on Facebook
  • About BMI Karts & Supplies
  • BMI Karts & Supplies is proud to be the internet leader for factory direct go kart parts and accessories. Visit our online catalog for go cart and racing kart parts, kits, frames and more. We carry all the top manufactures (Azusa, MCP, Briggs, Dynocam, Comet) for everything a gokart needs from axles, wheel and brake assemblies.

    Need a drive chain, gokart clutch or drive sprockets? We carry a huge inventory of go kart parts and accessories, clutches, belts and repair parts.

  • BMI Indoor Speedway
  • Get Email Deals
  • Be the first to hear about new and exciting products, special pricing and incredible deals!

Home>Manuals>MCP Brake Systems: Brake Bleeding
 

MCP Brake Systems: Brake Bleeding

Be sure all hydraulic connections are secure. Never use Teflon tape to seal the fittings in the castings. An appropriate Teflon paste like that used from the manufacturer is recommended. The high pressure tubing should be inserted completely into the cap and ferrule. Use only type "h" high pressure nylon tubing. From finger tight, the fitting cap should be tightened two turns. This should leave a gap of about .050" between the cap and the hex part of the fitting body.

Remove the filler plug from the master cylinder top and for standard systems, fill reservoir with dot‐5 silicone brake fluid only! The filler plug must be left loose all during the bleeding process, so do not replace it tightened. Stroke the master cylinder lever arm a full stroke and open the bleed screws on the caliper for about two seconds then close. Allow the master cylinder arm to return to the rest position and wait approximately 15 to 20 seconds to allow for the fluid in the reservoir to transfer into the bore of the master cylinder through the transfer port. Repeat the process of stroking the master cylinder again. Open and close the bleed screw the same as before. Allow the master cylinder lever arm to return to rest and wait again. It typically takes about four strokes to fill the bore of the master cylinder. Check the reservoir for fluid and keep topped up. Continue this procedure until a more firm pedal is realized and the brake pads begin to move. At this point, the procedure changes. You should now have a shorter master cylinder stroke to work with as the pads are making contact with the rotor. From this point on, open and close only one bleed screw for a very short time. Basically, open and close the bleed screw about as fast as possible. Do not be concerned if you get only fluid. Repeating the process, continue to pump the master cylinder rapidly, hold firm and open a bleed screw. Continue this process until satisfied that this half of the caliper is bled. Repeat the same process on the other caliper half until bled. If a large amount of fluid is allowed to escape from the bleed screw during this process, you will most likely draw air into the system causing a spongy pedal. The reason for this is that you would inadvertently cause a strong vacuum in the power side of the system with no means for the master cylinder piston to get back to the resting position where the transfer port connecting the reservoir is uncovered.

When finished, check the reservoir for the proper fluid level, which is about a 1/16" below the bottom of the master cylinder cap threads. Replace the filler plug and finger tightens only. Check all hydraulic connections for fluid leaks.